The first time two Ottawa friends told me they were driving up to their cottage near Wakefield, Quebec, just for dinner, I thought they were joking.
I grew up in Southern Ontario, where anyone making a trip to a cottage planned for it like the Allies strategizing the invasion of Normandy. You had to leave at some ungodly hour to beat the traffic. You had to pack the car with enough snacks and amusements to keep the kids from rebelling during the three-hour journey. And once you got to your little piece of heaven by the lake, you stayed for at least a long weekend—or, preferably, half the summer.
So the idea that you could drive to the wilderness in less time than the average GTA resident takes to drive to IKEA just didn’t compute.
But it is indeed possible. Ottawans with cottages in the Wakefield area can get from the city to a secluded lake in about as much time as it takes to listen to a podcast.
Your instinct at this point may be to wail, “I don’t have a cottage!” I hear you (I don’t have one, either). But here’s the great news about Wakefield: You can revel in the great outdoors—as well as food, shopping, music and history—on a day trip, and still be home in time to get a good night’s sleep.
The drive to Wakefield
Minutes after driving over the Macdonald-Cartier Bridge and merging onto Quebec’s Highway 5, you’ll leave the Hull sector of Gatineau behind (unless you’re doing this trip on the Friday of a long weekend—then you might want to bring those snacks and amusements).
As soon as you’ve passed the last subdivision, the four-lane highway begins a steady, scenic climb into the forested Gatineau Hills. If you can, take this route in the fall, when the foliage seems bright enough to hurt your eyes.
After all that splendid nature, the main exit to Wakefield may make you laugh out loud. The first thing you’ll encounter as you head down the exit ramp is not a rustic log cabin or a pristine lake, but a small cluster of chain stores, including a Tim Hortons, a Subway and a Tigre Géant.
Don’t let that discourage you. Follow Valley Drive into Wakefield and, once you’re near the T-junction where Valley meets Riverside, start looking for a spot to stash your car. It can be tricky finding parking in the centre of the village, particularly on sunny summer weekends and during festivals.
A walk around Wakefield
Start your explorations with a leisurely stroll down Riverside. The town’s main commercial strip is packed with shops and restaurants (more on those in a minute), but it also offers some nice views of the Gatineau River.
If you’re feeling energetic, turn left onto Mill, just past the Blacksheep Inn, for a somewhat steep 600-metre walk up to the Wakefield Mill Hotel and Spa (60 Mill). It stands beside MacLaren Falls on the La Pêche River, which industrialists first harnessed in the 1830s to power wool and flour mills. The current stone building was built in 1910. Stop for a drink, a meal, a spa treatment or just a few photographs.
For a longer side trip, instead of turning onto Mill, keep walking north on Riverside. In about two kilometres, you’ll get to the community’s best-known landmark: the Wakefield Covered Bridge. The striking red span across the Gatineau River isn’t the first covered bridge on this site, as the original 1915 Gendron Bridge was torched by arsonists in July 1984. However, keen residents launched a major fundraising campaign to build the current bridge, which was finished in 1997 and officially opened in 1998. It’s open to pedestrians and cyclists only; there’s a bigger bridge for vehicles just to the north.
If you cross the Gatineau River on the covered bridge, you’ll be close to the Fairbairn House Heritage Centre (45 Wakefield Heights). Housed in a 160-year-old farmhouse, it hosts all sorts of public activities, including nature hikes, children’s art classes, beekeeping workshops and historical exhibitions.
Outdoor fun
With its scenic location, Wakefield is a hub for outdoor activities of all kinds, from the sedate to the insane.
In the quiet category is Éco-Odyssée (52 les Sources), a unique six-kilometre water maze where you can learn about local ecology while piloting a pedal boat.
Gatineau Park has hundreds of kilometres of hiking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and bike trails, as well as countless paddling destinations; you can rent gear at Expéditions Wakefield (721 Riverside) if you don’t have your own.
For downhill skiing, there’s Ski Vorlage right in the village (65 Burnside), Edelweiss across the river (538 Edelweiss) and Mont Cascades nearby (448 Mont-des-Cascades, Cantley).
Need more of an adrenaline rush? Just south of Wakefield, Great Canadian Bungee (1780 Highway 105, Chelsea) is the country’s highest bungee jump. Thrill seekers—or, as I call them, “crazy people”—leap roughly 61 metres (200 feet) from a platform above Morrison’s Quarry. There’s also a 310-metre (1,015 feet) zipline called the Ripride that lets you hurtle above the water at speeds of around 85 km/h (53mph).
Shopping
Wakefield is the perfect place to browse for things you didn’t know you needed until you saw them. For gifts—many with a country-style vibe—try Jamboree (740 Riverside) or End of the Line (1 Manse). Khewa Native Art Boutique (737 Riverside) sells clothing, wall hangings, gift cards and other items printed with gorgeous Indigenous artworks. In the shop, you’ll also find moccasins, dishes, jewellery, ceremonial items and much more.
Food and drink
Looking for a pastry, coffee or tea? For a small place, Wakefield seems to have an inordinate number of bakeries (not that I’m complaining). Pop into Patisserie La Toque (729 Riverside) for macarons, éclairs and other elegant items; or the Pipolinka Bakery (757B Riverside) or Wakefield Bakery (813 Riverside) for a wide range of treats. Also for those with a sweet tooth, La Confiserie Wakefield (817 Riverside) makes its own fudge, chocolates, candy, preserves and maple goodies.
For something a little more substantial, the menu at Nikosi Bistro-Pub (721 Riverside) reflects both French and Indigenous influences, with dishes such as blueberry bannock grilled cheese with maple garlic aioli. Le Hibou (757 Riverside) has a big patio overlooking the river, where you can choose from a wide-ranging menu featuring everything from Moroccan chicken tagine to pad Thai.
At the Wakefield Mill, the Muse Restaurant offers fancy fare, such as sous-vide black cod and a five-course “discovery experience” menu, while the hotel’s Heron Wine Bar serves upscale takes on casual classics like fish and chips. If you want an indoor or outdoor table overlooking the waterfall, you’d be wise to book in advance.
The Blacksheep Inn/Le Mouton Noir (753 Riverside) does serve food and drinks, but it’s better known as one of the region’s busiest live music venues, usually hosting multiple shows a week. [NOTE: The venue is temporarily closed, but the owner hopes to reopen in fall 2022.] Just down the street, Kaffé 1870 (715 Riverside) is another good spot to enjoy live music, as you nosh on sandwiches, soups and baked goods.
Local attraction: Arbraska Laflèche
Travelling with a group where everyone has different interests? About a 15-minute drive east of Wakefield, you can hedge your bets at Arbraska Laflèche (255 Principale, Val-des-Monts). Depending on the season, some of you can go ziplining, while others check out the aerial ropes course, explore caves or snowshoe.
The eight ziplines at Laflèche include one 67 metres above the ground and another that zings above a lake. And the aerial obstacle course features all sorts of tightropes, swinging bridges and other equipment that will seriously test your fear of heights.
As high places don’t normally bother me, I once gamely set off to traverse a rope net suspended vertically above a small pond. About halfway across, I froze like a cat on a screen door. It took me so long to muster up the courage to keep going that I wondered whether I’d have to call someone to bring me food and a blanket for the night.
If spelunking has more appeal, you can explore an extensive cave system on a tour that includes narrow spaces, a plunge into total darkness and likely encounters with bats. Wear your woollies, as the temperature in the caverns hovers around 4C year round.
Did you know about Patinage en forêt?
OK, so it’s a half-hour drive west of Wakefield—but, believe me, Patinage en forêt (9 Beausoliel, Lac-des-Loups) is worth the detour.
When winter weather conditions are right, you can skate along a three-kilometre trail carved through a forest of pine, birch and other trees. If you need to catch your breath, there are benches and a warming chalet. But I’d rather pause near one of the many bird feeders along the way, which are magnets for chickadees and blue jays.
Try to arrive early on a weekday for the best conditions. On my last visit, I showed up around 10am on a blindingly sunny day with a wind chill hovering around -28C. The groomers were just finishing up as I arrived, and the ice was as smooth as a quartz countertop. Seriously, I’ve seen rougher curling sheets.
Gliding along a winding trail while inhaling big lungfuls of pine-scented air is utterly different from skating on an indoor rink or even the Rideau Canal. If skating isn’t your thing, you can enjoy the setting by walking or snowshoeing along adjacent trails instead. Services available including skate and snowshoe rentals, skate sharpening, and a snack bar.
How to get to Wakefield
Wakefield is 35 kilometres from Parliament Hill. To get there by car from Ottawa, take King Edward Avenue or Sussex Drive to the Macdonald-Cartier Bridge, then follow Highway 5 north. Take exit 28 (marked “La Pêche”), then follow the signs to Wakefield.
No car? No problem! Take an STO bus from either downtown Ottawa or from Gatineau to Les Galeries de Hull. There, about nine times a day, you can board a Transcollines bus and take it all the way to Wakefield. As I write this, the cash-only single fare is just $1.50, if you have an STO transfer; without an STO transfer, it’s $4.25. The trip takes about 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the time of day. Hop out at Centre Commuautaire Wakefield. Eight buses a day will take you back to Les Galeries de Hull. Check the Transcollines website for schedules. (You’re looking for routes 921, 923, 924 and 925.)
You can cycle to Wakefield, but you need to be both fit and fearless, as you’ll be on the shoulders of busy, hilly roads at several points. The great GoBiking website has detailed directions.
Wakefield accommodations
Want to stay longer than a day? Check out the map below for nearby hotels, B&Bs and other accommodations. (Note that the map has affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you book a place to stay via the map. If you do so, thank you!)
Wakefield travel information
For more information on visiting Wakefield, see Destination Wakefield or Tourisme Outaouais.
Looking for more tips on things to see and do in the Outaouais, Ottawa and Eastern Ontario? Subscribe to my free weekly newsletter and pick up a copy of my guidebook, Ottawa Road Trips: Your 100km Getaway Guide, from which this post is adapted.
10 comments
[…] at Éco-Odyssée or enjoy a romantic getaway at the Wakefield Mill. Intrigued? Check out my ultimate day trip guide to Wakefield and 10 things you didn’t know about […]
[…] When it comes to reasons to take a day trip from Ottawa, Wakefield has lots. Some people come to the Gatineau Hills town for live music shows at the Black Sheep Inn. Others make the trip for the fudge at La Confiserie Wakefield. The red covered bridge over the Gatineau River is popular with Instagrammers, families enjoy piloting pedal boats through the aquatic mazes at Éco-Odyssée and thrill seekers head straight to Great Canadian Bungee. Want to learn more? Here’s my detailed guide to visiting Wakefield. […]
[…] Wakefield in a nutshell: On the edge of Gatineau Park, Wakefield is a magnet for outdoorsy types—even though it’s just a half-hour drive from downtown Ottawa. Make like a yo-yo at Great Canadian Bungee, the country’s highest bungee jump. Hit the slopes at at Mont Cascades (currently rebuilding after a devastating August 2021 lodge fire and planning to re-open soon) or Ski Vorlage. Paddle the Gatineau River or any number of lakes in Gatineau Park. And when you’re good and tired, head into town for some live music at the legendary Black Sheep Inn. P.S.: For more ideas, see my complete guide to Wakefield. […]
Thank you SO much – I have ziplined in the Cobden area (can’t recall the park) super experience- only drawback was climbing the many steps however Very glad I did it! Would like to zipline across the Ottawa River – is there an age limit – I am 79! Keep your newsy email coming! Thank you! WO.
I love your sense of adventure! The zipline across the Ottawa River is a ton of fun. I checked the Interzip Rogers site and it says there are no age restrictions–hooray!
Did you see my post about the zipline? https://ottawaroadtrips.com/2021/06/29/zip-lining-ottawa-river-interzip-rogers-gatineau-zibi/
Keep your wonderful newsy letters coming
I will do, Wendy–I’m glad you enjoy them!
Will do!
[…] to see and do in the area? Check out Katharine Fletcher’s great guest post about Chelsea, my day tripper’s guide to Wakefield and my beginner’s guide to Gatineau […]
[…] High in the Gatineau Hills and right next to Gatineau Park, Wakefield is an ideal base for just about every sort of outdoor recreation. In winter, for instance, you can go downhill skiing at Ski Vorlage (65, ch. Burnside) or Sommet Edelweiss (538, ch. Edelweiss), or skate along a frozen water maze or snowshoe along trails at Eco-Odyssée (52, ch. des Sources). At day’s end, unwind at the Wakefield Mill (60, ch. Mill) with drinks and bistro fare at the Héron Lounge or the five-course tasting menu at La Muse. (That’s just one suggestion; here’s are more tips for visiting Wakefield.) […]